Leeks Vinaigrette

Did I ever tell you that I meal plan every week? I do. I usually look at the coming weeks weather forecast and plan meals according to how cold or blustery and or how sunny and warm it's supposed to be and come up with meals according to that. Warm=Salads, grilled fish, etc. Cold=soups, stews, roasts and cozy sides like leeks vinaigrette. It's cold this week.

I meal plan because there is an art to cooking, and that's why I so adore it. Thought goes into which member of the family likes what, to planning time to cook, and yes, looking at the weather to make sure what I serve is going to be appropriate. Call me crazy but I don't want chili when it's 55 degrees and sunny (55 degrees in Steamboat during the winter is like summer time). So I meal plan. Sometimes shopping for a full weeks worth of food is daunting, especially if I have 3 little kids to haul to the store, so I break it up into two shorter trips for those times. I'll shop on Monday for groceries through Thursday and then go again at the end of the week.

I like to be thoughtful about food because the pace of life today is so quick, and we often feel so rushed and disconnected from one another, that it's easy to forget how powerful the ritual of eating together can be. To be able to sit at the table, passing food, sharing stories of the day, with the sense that for an hour or so, the outside world can be set aside, is a gift to embrace. Some days life is sweet, other days life can be hard, but the one thing we can always strive to do, is to partake of the comfort and pleasure of sharing a meal with those we hold dear. Thank you to the great Thomas Keller, for helping me define that in my life.

Dinner to me is almost like a love letter to my family. I'm fortunate enough to enjoy the preparation of such meals. There are other areas of my life (ahem...laundry) that are not as pleasurable for me, but I do it anyway for the same reason. It is an honor for me to be the wife of a husband I respect and adore and the mother to children I am honored enough to be around. I love them and take care of them. Of course there are nights when I don't take delight in the precision of my cutting skills while chopping vegetables. I'm tired. I'm done. I don't want to make dinner EVERY night. And I don't. But when I need to, I dig down deep and remember why I do this. That it is my great privilege to serve my family in this way. And sometimes, that includes meticulously cleaning leeks.

Leeks might not be a familiar side dish to us Americans, but to the French, it's about as everyday as it can gets. You boil trimmed leeks in very salty water until soft and toss them with homemade vinaigrette and because of the method in which you cook them, they transform from leeks with vinaigrette to something finer, to leeksandvinaigrette, rich and saucy, or so Molly over at Orangette likes to say. She got this recipe when she lived in France for college. Her host mother, Corentine, would make these weekly. I imagine she had been making them her whole life and that they amounted to nothing special in her mind...just some cooked leeks tossed in vinegar and oil. Those French just don't know how very chic they can be sometimes. Actually, I take that back. They probably most definitely do.

Leeks Vinaigrette

adapted from the blog, "Orangette" by Molly Weisenberg

2 to 3 Tbsp. white wine vinegar
1 to 2 tsp. Dijon mustard
¼ tsp. salt, or more to taste
6 Tbsp. olive oil
1 small to medium shallot, minced
2 lb. small leeks (about 7 or 8)

Optional garnishes:
Finely chopped bacon
Finely chopped hard-boiled egg

In a small bowl, whisk together 2 tablespoons white wine vinegar, 1 teaspoon mustard, and salt. Gradually whisk in the olive oil, mixing until emulsified. Taste. This dressing should be fairly bright, and the mustard flavor should come through, but not too powerfully. Adjust as needed with vinegar, mustard, and/or salt. When you’re happy with it, add the shallots, whisking to blend. Set aside. Be sure to taste it again later, just before tossing it with the leeks, so that if necessary, you can adjust it according to their flavor.

Lay a clean kitchen towel on the counter near the stove. Bring a large pot of water to a boil, and salt it well. It should taste like sea water.

While the water comes to a boil, prepare the leeks. Trim away the hair-like roots, but take care not too cut in too far; you want the leek to stay intact. Cut off and discard the dark green leafy parts, leaving just the white and pale green stalk. Starting about 1 inch from the root end, so as to keep the white part intact, cut lengthwise down the middle of the leek. (If you were to splay the cut leek open, it should look like a stubby Y.) Wash the leeks well under running water, flushing any dirt from between the layers. Boil until they are very, very tender and yield easily to a knife. Their color will become muted, and they may be falling apart a little. That’s okay. To be sure they’re done, taste one: it should taste sweet, with no trace of raw flavor. The amount of time that this will take depends on their size, but it will probably take longer than you think. Ten minutes is a good bet.

Draining the leeks as well as you can, transfer them to the kitchen towel on the counter. Blot and press them dry. (Don’t burn yourself!) While they’re still hot, put them in a bowl, and toss them with a generous amount of the dressing. Allow to cool at least slightly before serving.

These leeks are slightly sweet and oniony. They would be perfect as a side to a steak dinner, but really, anything works with these guys. We had an all veggie night where we just prepared a lot of vegetables different ways, got out a loaf of fantastic bread made by a local bakery and called it dinner. It was delicious.

Easy Lemon Broccoli

I'm sure this is a standard method in which to cook broccoli or any vegetable for that matter, but I just winged it the other night with no recipe to refer to. I know, I'm such a little dare devil sometimes. But seriously, broccoli can be so boring and I find myself not serving it a whole lot because it's not as tasty as I'd like it to be. Not anymore. Broccoli has it's groove back in my house and it was welcomed, even by the children with open arms.

I like it this way because it's fresh and delicately flavorful with out being weighed down with butter, which some people do, or cheese. Now I'm not hating on the cheese and broccoli thing. I make a roasted broccoli with Parmesan which is a real winner, but sometimes you just want something lighter...fresher. This is it. I like to have my ingredients chopped and ready to go before I boil the broccoli. That way while it's boiling I can make my "sauce" quickly and the whole dish is ready and hot at the same time. Make this just before sitting down to dinner. It takes less than 10 minutes start to finish if you have your water boiling and waiting for you.

Easy Lemon Broccoli

serves 4-6

3 medium broccoli heads

2 fat garlic cloves, minced

zest of 1 whole lemon

juice from 1/2- 1 whole lemon, depending on your taste. (I use the whole thing)

2 tablespoons olive oil or grape seed oil

2 tablespoons butter

1/2 teaspoon red pepper flakes (optional)

1/2 a lemon cut in half moons for garnish (optional)

Kosher salt

Bring a large pot of water to a boil with a few hefty pinches of salt. This will flavor the broccoli from the inside out. Separate the broccoli heads into florets, chop your garlic and zest your lemon. When the water is at a boil, add the florets into the pot and boil for 3-4 minutes, just until the broccoli is bright green and fork tender but still has a little bite to it. In essence, don't over cook! meanwhile melt the butter and oil together in a saucepan over medium heat. Add the garlic and cook, for 30 seconds to 1 minute. Don't let the broccoli get brown. Turn the heat down to medium low. Add the lemon zest and red pepper flakes if using. Set the pan off the heat if need be while you strain the broccoli, so as not to burn anything. Add the cooked broccoli to the pan, and the lemon juice and lemon pieces if using. Add a pinch of salt and toss to combine either off the heat or on low heat.

If the broccoli gets too hot while tossing, it will turn brown which can make it taste bitter so that is why I say to combine everything off the heat. This is a perfect addition to a weeknight dinner with some blackened fish or baked chicken and a baked potato. There I go meal planning for you again. Sorry. You can make it with whatever you like. Fancy that!

Rosanne Cash's Potato Salad

We had an "End of the Summer/Back to School/Jeremy Hates Winter" BBQ at our house 2 weekends ago. We invited friends, grilled burgers, drank watermelon lemonade and sangria, had cobbler, built a fire, made dough boys and played a round of gin rummy. Good times, indeed. We also ate this potato salad.

It's a very Americana style potato salad. How could it not be given that it is Roseanne Cash's (Johnny Cash's daughter) recipe? It's classic in every way and if you want potato salad that tastes as it ought to, I recommend it highly! Sure, there are times where a french style potato salad, with a vinaigrette dressing instead of mayo based, is more appropriate; but not at a down home BBQ...I'm just sayin'.

The dressing is in fact mayonnaise based, but it is highly flavored with mustard and vinegar so it's not heavy. You mix it in with the usual suspects (hard boiled eggs, onion and celery) and a not so usual suspect (dill pickle). Do you add dill pickles to your potato salad? I've never heard of it, but apparently people do it, and you should too because it's just perfect here. You use the small red skinned potatoes, un peeled, which is awesome and fresh dill finishes it off perfectly. It would certainty be a great addition to your Labor Day weekend menu.

Rosanne Cash's Potato Salad

Adapted from Bon Appetit via Smitten Kitchen

Serves at least 8

3 pounds medium red-skinned potatoes, un peeled, scrubbed

8 dill pickle spears or a handful of cornichon, coarsely shopped (about 1 1/2 cups)

3 celery stalks, chopped (about 1 cup)

1 small red onion, chopped (about 1 cup)

4 hard boiled eggs, peeled, chopped

2/3 cup mayonaise

2 tablespoons apple cider vinegar (I only had white vinegar so I used that)

2 tablespoons Dijon mustard

2 tablespoons minced fresh dill

salt and pepper to taste (salt brings out all the flavor, so don't be shy)

Cook potatoes in a large pot of boiling salted water until fork-tender, about 30 minutes. Drain and cool, then cut potatoes into chunks and transfer to a large bowl. Stir in pickles, celery, onion, eggs, mayonnaise, vinegar and dill. Season potato salad with salt and pepper to taste.

Do ahead: Vegetables and dressing can be prepared and stored separately a day or two in advance. mix and let stand at room temperature one hour before serving.

We were lucky enough to have potato salad left over to munch on. In fact, I believe it's the ONLY thing we ate for lunch the day after. It's addicting. Be warned.

Fried Green Tomatoes

I think I was meant to be southern. Fried chicken was one of the first things I learned how to make (although, I prefer flattened chicken breasts to bone in) along with chicken and dumplings and killer garlic mashed potatoes. I love Paula Deen, peach cobbler, crab/shrimp boils, fried green tomatoes, comfort food in general and collard greens have been on my Thanksgiving table 2 years in a row. And that whole rolling lawns, huge trees, white houses, boating, shrimping, proper, sweet tea, southern belle, cute accent, steel magnolia thing...I'll take that too. If I moved to the south I'd change my kids names to Caroline Marie, Wade Clifton MacGray III and Peyton and we'd fit right in. Of course that would mean Jeremy's name would have to be Wade Clifton MacGray II and I don't think I could pull that one off. Jeremy Scott MacGray III doesn't quite have that same southern charm does it? Oh well, maybe I'll just stick to making the food.

I was at Sweet Pea, our local farmers market after a bike ride through town with my family. I walked in to see what they had, fingers crossed that there would be green tomatoes. Lo and behold there they were right when I walked in the door in a big wooden basket! I immediately packed a bag full, paid up and biked home to cook them. I don't mess around with green tomatoes. I see them maybe once a year up here in Steamboat and I know to buy as many as possible when I do. Then I eat them for days. We had them tonight for dinner, since we had a late lunch and It's all I really wanted anyway. I'll have them again for lunch tomorrow and the next day. My goal is to basically stuff myself full so I don't want them again until next summer. Then I don't feel so bad about it.

I've made fried green tomatoes many, many times throughout my life starting when I saw the movie, of the same name (Fried Green Tomatoes) starring Kathy Bates, Mary Louise Parker and Mary Stuart Masterson. I don't know how old I was, but I was young. My Grandma Grillo who is from Missouri, but likes to think she's southern (well maybe that is???) was nice enough to make me my first batch and I fell in love. If you have never had one before, let me tell you about them in all their glory. They are sturdy with a great toothy, substantial bite to them. They are hot and slightly tangy sour, salty and cornmealy and most importantly, fried. So it crackles in your mouth. It's sooooooo good. That's really the only thing you have to know.

Green tomatoes are just red tomatoes that are not ripe yet. They are never mealy, which is what I hate about fresh tomatoes. Considering the fact that this dish is incredibly simple, it's weird that there are so many versions out there. Different batters and breading each of which have loyal followers. I like them best dipped into and egg and buttermilk mixture and dredged into a cornmeal/flour/garlic powder mixture. But by all means, if you like italian bread crumbs use those (it just won't get as crisp on the outside).

Fried Green Tomatoes

2-3 green tomatoes, sliced a scant 1/2" thick

1/2 cup all purpose flour

1/2 cup cornmeal

2 teaspoons garlic powder

2 eggs

1 tablespoon buttermilk

kosher salt

olive oil

combine the flour, cornmeal, garlic powder and 2 teaspoons kosher salt in a shallow bowl and set aside. Combine the 2 eggs and buttermilk with a pinch of salt and whisk together until well combined and set aside.

Heat a heavy skillet on the stovetop over medium heat, then add enough olive oil to cover the bottom of the pan thickly. Dip and cover each of the tomato slices with the egg mixture first, then the cornmeal mixture, then dip again into the egg and once more into the cornmeal mixture so you have dredged each tomato slice twice. When the oil is hot in the pan add tomato slices and saute for about 1 1/2 minutes on each side or until crust is golden and sprinkle generously with salt while still hot. When done, drain on paper towels and eat fresh while still warm.

If your tomatoes are bland at all, add more salt but they shouldn't be. I like to pick these up and eat them with my hands but you can also place them on a plate and eat them with a fork and knife. You can also make a sandwich with them. Just place them between two pieces of hearty bread, like a baguette or sturdy whole grain and add some bacon and lettuce to make a BLT of delicious sorts, or grill with pepper jack cheese and make a ridiculous high calorie grilled cheese with fried green tomato. However you eat these, you won't be sorry and the possibilities are endless so have some fun ya'll! Yeah, Iv'e got this southern thing down pat.

Zucchini, Basil, Tomato Saute

This is a side dish that they serve at a restaurant here in Steamboat called "Three Peaks Grill". No, it's not actually their recipe but the owner did tell me what went into it and I couldn't be more thrilled. I have actually made a mock version of this before using all the same stuff as it's not hard to tell what the ingredients are. It's very straight forward, but also, for some reason extra yummy. Maybe its the way you cut the zucchini into pretty little strips, or the way that all the ingredients come together and just mesh. What ever the reason, it's fresh, pure and simple with pops of fresh basil and tangy fresh lemon. It really tastes like Summer on a plate.

I made this a couple days ago on Thursday for our family dinner. My Aunt was in town and we had a little get together. This side dish went really well with our grilled salmon but I really like it with seared tuna, normally. I only recommend you make this when zucchini and tomatoes are in peak season. There's nothing worse to me than a mealy tomato. Ugh, the mere thought of it makes me shudder.

Zucchini, Basil, Tomato Saute

adapted from "Three Peaks Grill"

Olive Oil

4 medium zucchini, cut into a large julianne

2 medium tomatoes, cut into medium dice

15 leaves fresh basil, cut into a chiffonade

juice from 1 lemon

kosher salt

pepper

Serves 6-8

For the zucchini; cut each zucchini into quarter inch rounds, then cut those rounds 3 or 4 times across so you end up with small strips of zucchini.

Heat a saute pan over medium heat and add a couple tablespoons of olive oil. Add the zucchini and stir occasionally until it is starting to wilt then add the tomato chunks and saute everything together until almost cooked through. Add the lemon juice, salt and pepper to taste (you need quite a lot to bring the flavors out) and cook for another minute. Finally, take the vegetables off the heat and add the basil. Stir to combine and serve immediately.

I know it's kind of cheating when I blog about something like this. I find that sometimes I get really wrapped up in more complicated dishes that I forget about the less complicated and let's face it, simpler is sometimes better.

Potato Gratin

This is a definitely one of my go to recipes. It's no wonder then, that I turn to this very recipe when I needed it most. You see, on Thursday it's my turn to make my monthly dinner for sk8 church. Not just any dinner, but an Easter dinner. They didn't ask me to do it, but my day (the first Thursday of every month) happens to fall 3 days before Easter this year and I just had to make them a meal to celebrate it. Who knows, for some of them it might be their only Easter meal. When you are making a meal for 60-70 or so people there are lots of variables to consider. The main dish was easy. Ham is what you eat on Easter, It's traditional. Plus it comes fully cooked and when you order honeybaked hams, like me, it's even easier since they are best served at room temperature. No prep and No oven space needed, which is awesome because then I can make something like Potato Gratin, which does need the oven.

Potato gratin might not seem like a logical first choice when trying to make it for lots of people, but I beg to differ. I would argue that it's much easier than say- mashed potatoes. For mashed potatoes I would have had to peel an incredible number of potatoes and dice them all up--In batches, like 6 or 7 batches, I might add--and boil them all and them mash them all and season them all. Did I mention I would have to do that 6 or 7 times?!?!? Then there would be the issue of keeping them warm. You can't re-heat mashers with a lot of success so it's not something that can be made ahead. Potato gratin on the other hand can.

Sure, I will still have to make it in batches, but it won't be half as much a pain. You are "supposed" to peel the potatoes when you are making a gratin, but I think it would be absolutely fine to skip this step. I own a food processor so I can slice those un-skinned potaotes razor thin in about 30 seconds flat. Then You just toss those with cream and cheese and bake. And since it re-heats like a charm I can make and bake this the day before the dinner and reheat. Now, that's what I'm talking about!!

Potato Gratin
adapted loosely from The Barefoot Contessa Cookbook

1 yellow onion, thinly sliced
2 tablespoons good olive oil
1 tablespoon butter
5 large russet potatoes
2 cups plus 2 tablespoons heavy cream
2 1/2 cups grated gruyere cheese (1/2 pound)
1 teaspoon kosher salt
1/2 teaspoon freshly ground pepper

Preheat the oven to 350 degrees

Butter the inside of a 10 cup baking dish. Saute the onion in the olive oil and butter on medium-low heat for 15 minutes, until tender.

Peel the potatoes, then thinly slice them by hand or with a mandoline. Mix the sliced potatoes in a large bowl with 2 cups of cream, 2 cups of Gruyere, salt and pepper. Add the sauteed onion and mix well.

Pour the potato mixtur ein the buttered baking dish. Press down to smooth the potatoes. Combine the remaining 2 tablespoons cream and the 1/2 cup of gruyere and sprinkle on top. Bake for 1 1/2 hours, until the potatoes are very tender and the top is browned and bubbly. Allow to set for 10 minutes at room temperature and serve.

Serves 10
This gratin can be made days before and reheated at 350 degrees for about 30 minutes.

This recipe is originally called "Potato Fennel Gratin" and calls for 2 fennel bulbs to be sliced thinly and sauteed with the onions and then added to the potatoes. I have never done it that way though. I love fennel, I just have never tried it, is all. It would be delicious. If you try it let me know how it turns out!

I love this particular gratin mostly because the cheese is perfect. Gruyere is the quintessential gratin cheese. To me there is no substitute. It is so warm and gooey and nutty. Spectacular. It's also the only cheese I will put on top of my French onion soup. If you have never used it before, consider it a definite must.

Like I mentioned above, the ham is fully seasoned and cooked and spiral cut. The rolls are pre made. Once I have the potato gratin ready, all that will be left to do the day of is to assemble the spinach and strawberry salad. I feel triumphant!